I’ve now had a few weeks to shake off the jet lag, reorient myself around the city, and find my new spots. I’m within walking distance of several shopping centers including groceries, a butcher, several pharmacies and some decent local cafe chains. Just down the street is the largest second hand market in Kenya. It’s also the most organized and most expensive, meaning a pair of heels goes for about 300-600 Kenyan shillings or$2.80-$5.75. They sell everything from refurbished electronics to salvaged pots and pans, and even “gently used” women’s delicates. The clothes you donate to Salvation Army* get distributed or purchased at a very low price amongst these markets and then sold at a price higher than most of the people needing them can afford. #economics
Amidst the market there are several hole in wall restaurants and bars, and a large grouping of stands selling fresh produce. You can bargain for everything which makes watermelons $2, and grapefruit a $1.50 per piece. If you ask for a bonus, you can usually inspire the vendor to crack a smile and throw in a few chilies or some limes for you to take home. The restaurants are packed with locals and serve top notch Kenyan food for a small fraction of the closely positioned Java houses and Art Caffes. Not to mention they usually play more lively music and have better service as well.
I’ve learned the hard way not to walk at night, so I take Ubers everywhere. I’ve now rotated through almost all the drivers in the area, so it’s easier to communicate where to find me and where I’m trying to go. I’m three weeks into teaching spinning, and have had a mixed crowd and mixed reviews each time. I had 7 people in my first class who were all eager to work hard for an hour. Class was supposed to start at 8:30, but since the room was open and everyone was ready we started at 8. The second class was quite the opposite, as I showed up early and didn’t get going until 8:45. I had three brand new students, two of whom insisted on shortening class to 20 minutes. We compromised on 30. Class should be an hour. I’m also three weeks in to getting my ass kicked in Thai boxing. I’ve been having one on one training sessions with the manager who is acutely aware of my lack of coordination. Mad respect for anyone who has to think while competing. Especially when the consequence can be a total knockout.
I’ve also started cooking quite regularly, and after taking longer than usual to figure out a gas oven, I now have roasted three chickens to perfection. I brought a bike to Kenya, a bike that replaced three others, three of whom had been the cornerstone of my belongings for the last 8 years. I have ridden the bike once, my elbow got knocked by a bus on a steep downhill, and I almost got hit twice crossing a road. All this in the 1 mile trip I took across the neigborhood. It’s a bit of a transition going from a place where cycling is so accepted, to a place where there are many cycles, but you’re not obligated to accommodate them. I’ll find my groove.
I recently realized that I had instilled a fresh sense of fear in my head when I returned to Kenya. I no longer walk to explore, or “stop to smell the roses.” I’m intentioned and direct. I’ve ceased friendly chit chat with strangers and criticize every drivers route and action to make sure they take me places efficiently. I never assume that I’m getting a good price for anything, and find myself getting a little combative when carelessly approached in a public place. I don’t drink too much when I go out, and am never the last one home. It is a set of fears and behaviors I’ve probably developed for good reason, but it feels as though it’s taken over. If anything, now that I’ve become a little more familiar I should start to loosen up and enjoy what Kenya has to offer. After all, I did choose to be here.
I’ve picked up several Swahili resources from friends, and I spend about two hours every Sunday learning mostly grammar and a bit of vocabulary. I’m a long shot from claiming to have learned anything, but I feel I’m headed in the right direction. I also meet new people everyday who reaffirm the great place that Nairobi is. There are a lot of forward thinking, energetic entrepreneurs, who are lapping up opportunity in a rapidly trending, quickly evolving economy. It’s an incredible and inspiring environment. I’ve found the right place, now it’s time to call it home.
*no specific reference to Salvation Army or associates was intended.
Photo taken at a forest in Limuru. Where I went camping for the first time in Kenya.